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Marin Hiking & Biking
All Text and Photos by Ted Strodder © 2010




Without a doubt, Marin is one of the best places for hiking and biking in all of California, if not the world. Over 500 miles and hundreds of park and open space trails attest to walking and cycling's decades-long popularity here, with Mount Tamalpais acting as the nexus of this outdoor, vertical universe. Legend has it that this is where mountain biking was first invented, pioneered by both Joe Breeze (I kid you not) and Gary Fisher, both who make their own bikes now. The great thing about biking on Tam is the variety of the terrain. You can enjoy a leisurely, wide flat trail from the east end of Crown Road in Kentfield that takes you around the mountain for a couple miles or take a hard right halfway down that road.

 



View From Crown Road Trail

Crown Road Trail

Hoo-Koo-ee-Koo Trail

There is some spectacular scenery stretching up to fifty miles, especially on those clear, sunny days. Or, you can choose more challenging terrain by making a right up the Hoo-Koo-ee-Koo Trail (which translates to: "Not In My Backyard") just a hundred feet onto the Crown trail. It's a narrower, more vertical trail that basically parallels the Crown fire road below.


Hoo-Koo-ee-Koo Trail

There are also dozens of popular less challenging, paved level walking routes for those who prefer walking shoes over boots or skinny tires over knobbies. Two of the best are the Tiburon Bike/Walking Path, which starts at Blackie's Pasture. There is a huge parking lot that takes you past a statue of Blackie (and his grave), through McKegney Green and into Tiburon. Round trip is about three miles. There is an equally good one at the Mill Valley Bike/Walking PathMt. Tam over the many years I've lived here and have some road-biking also, as you can see from the photos which starts near Bayfront Park in Mill Valley and heads south towards Sausalito, ending at (or even across) the Golden Gate Bridge. I have personally walked or biked many of the trails on and around


Blackie's Pasture

Dawn Falls Trail

Another favorite of mine is the Dawn Falls Trail, which is at the end of Madrone Road in Larkspur, just across from the Lark Creek Inn. Park anywhere you can legally as parking is limited, then head into the trees along the creek bed twenty minutes up to Dawn Falls. It's pretty weak in the summer, but in the winter and spring, the falls really rage. It's damp, but spectacular.


Dawn Falls

East Peak of Mt. Tam

The strenuous, but spectacular (especially in spring) seven-mile hike, starts out on the coastal hills at the Pantoll Ranger Station, descends to Stinson Beach and returns along scenic Steep Ravine. Pantoll has a good-size parking lot with no fee to park. Also note, they say you can't bring dogs on the trails, but everybody does. The East Peak of Mt. Tamalpais is an elevation of 2,751 feet and is a premier viewing area in the Bay Area with incomparable views in all directions.



East Peak of Mt. Tam

The Coast and Steep Ravine Trail on Mt. Tamalpais is a popular hike that reaches an elevation of 1,600 feet.


There are dozens of great view spots on Mt. Tamalpais, but O'Rourkes Bench at an elevation of 2,040 feet, carved out of stone and located on the western flank of the mountain, is one of the best. One of the most rugged bike trails is the almost 18-mile ride up Eldridge Grade to East Peak. There is rocky terrain but the long climb has wilderness appeal and panoramic views of the bay. There are lake and meadow rest stops and the ride down is steep and fast.

The Marin Headlands has different difficulty levels of trails for bikers and hikers and also a variety of terrains. The Visitors Center sells an extremely informative map for $2.00. The Pt. Bonita Trail is a favorite for hikers.

The trail is often windy, but it winds around the old military fortifications from Rodeo Beach to Pt. Bonita and explores both beach and coastal areas with great views. Hawk Hill is another favorite viewpoint. Not only do you get a classic view of the Golden Gate Bridge, but in the fall as many as 2,000 hawks a day pass overhead.



Point Bonita Trail

The Tennessee Valley Trail at the Marin Headlands is one of the most popular trails in Marin. What's the secret? Why is this short, easy trail so popular? Because it's short, easy, accessible and offers lots to see. The two-mile walk to the cove has a slight gradient and a couple of small rises, just enough to provide good exercise without being difficult. The length makes it perfect for families, seniors and anyone on a tight schedule.

From the parking lot, go through the gate and walk on the paved street. The scenery starts immediately. To your right is Coyote Ridge. It's rather rounded with lots of open grassland. Scan it for wildlife. Deer are a common sight and you might see a bobcat. Wolf Ridge, rising sharply on your left, is home to a family of coyotes, and if you have binoculars, you might spot them wandering the hillside. After passing ranch buildings on the left, the pavement ends and the Tennessee Valley Trail becomes a dirt fire road. You have the choice of walking on the fire road or veering left onto a single-track trail. Both routes converge near the beach.

Watch for birds in trees that line the creek. Survey the sky for hawks, ravens and turkey vultures soaring on the thermals rising above the ridges.  If you're walking along the path, stop at the footbridge that crosses the stream at the junction of the Coastal Trail and search for wildlife. You might see newts and frogs. A pond hidden by cattails and vines becomes visible when the fire road curves over a small rise. The dam that creates the pond was built in 1957 when the valley was a cattle ranch. A variety of ducks frequent this pond. You might see widgeons, teals, mallards, American coots, grebes and many types of gulls.

The tall cliffs jutting out into sea on both sides of the cove protect it and hide it. You'll hear the crashing waves before you see the inlet. Sand and driftwood come and go with the seasons and storms and help to give this little nook its character. The valley and cove are named for the S.S. Tennessee that ran aground there in 1853 during heavy fog. All the passengers got to shore safely along with much of the cargo. The steamship was not so lucky; it was not salvaged and eventually broke up in the surf.

Kent Trail

The Marin Municipal Water District's Kent Trail is an exhilarating five-mile hike along the conifer shores of Alpine lake. You walk through a redwood forest and emerge onto a ridge with great views. The trail is steep and rocky in some places.

Point Reyes

The Point Reyes National Seashore area has three exceptional hikes: Sky, Lighthouse, and Chimney Rock Trails. The Sky Trail is about seven miles and is considered the easiest hike to Inverness Ridge. The trail provides great views, forest vegetation, and berries and flowers in the spring. The Lighthouse and Chimney Rock Trails are short hikes. Both trails provide great views, and wind and fog. The Lighthouse Trail offers whale watching in the early spring. Chimney Rock Trail offers coastal wildflowers, colonies of elephant seals, and whale watching.

 


Tomalas Bay Map

A winter hike to Tomales Point at the northern tip of the Point Reyes peninsula offers opportunities to see elk, sea lions and whales.

The trek to Tomales Point, a round trip of 9.5 miles, is moderately strenuous. The terrain isn't difficult. In fact, most of the journey is a comfortable walk on dirt roads. But there are sandy sections near the tip, and those parts require considerable effort with each footstep sinking deep into loose sand.

Beginning at Upper Pierce Ranch, follow the Tomales Point Trail across the rolling landscape to the site of Lower Pierce Ranch. Walking along the ridgeline provides panoramic views of the ocean and Tomales Bay.

I was hiking on this trail when a well-traveled member of the group commented that she'd seen whales on trips to Alaska and elsewhere, but never along Marin's coast. We stopped at the top of a dramatic cliff to examine the coastline and at that very moment, a whale spouted in a cove directly below us. We all laughed at the coincidence and enjoyed the show as two whales frolicked beyond the surf line. From our vantage, we could see the dark shapes of the humpbacks against the blue-green of the ocean. The whales' frothy spouts acted as white signal flags.

Looking east from Windy Gap, much of Tomales Bay is visible. The bay is long, narrow and shallow. Its protected waters provide excellent growing conditions for oysters. If you have binoculars, you can see oyster beds, rows of sticks in the water, across the bay near the community of Marshall. Looking west along the coast, watch for harbor seals and sea birds near shore and whales about a quarter-mile out to sea.

The elk graze in ravines and on open hillsides and are usually in groups. They might be near the trail. If so, do not attempt to approach them. Give these large animals a wide birth. Only a cluster of trees marks the site of the Lower Pierce Ranch. The road narrows to a trail that becomes paths in the sand that weave around large lupine bushes.
Tomales Point is a jagged cliff carved by pounding surf. The view is spectacular. The community of Dillon Beach is visible across the mouth of Tomales Bay and Bodega Headlands straight north. Sea lions inhabit the rocks below the point.

The Ring Mountain Trail on the Tiburon Peninsula is popular with hikers and bikers. The trail is only about three miles but is rocky and rutted in areas. The climb is up grassy slopes and provides views across the bay to San Francisco and wildflower displays.

Just off highway 101, behind the Marin Civic Center is Santa Margarita Island, definitely a "hidden hiking treasure". You can park at the end of Meadow off of North San Pedro Road, walk across the bridge and explore this small, twenty acre park.

Back around Pt. San Pedro are the China Camp Bay View and Shoreline Trails, considered great single-track bike rides among those in the know. The trails wind through oak-bay woodland along the hills bordering San Pablo Bay. The ten-mile trail has some narrow sections and tricky turns. The trail crisscrosses fire roads and offers much to explore through the Park. The Park's trails are multi-use and popular with hikers also. You can park at Back Ranch Meadows, which is one of the few places they allow overnight camping in Central Marin. Back Ranch Meadows.JPG

In West Marin, drive all the way down Sir Francis Drake, past my office at 511, to Nicasio Reservoir. All sorts of trails start from-and go around-this medium sized lake. You can see by the photo how beautiful it is. Keep going, almost to Olema until you see the Bolinas Ridge Trailhead. Parking is only on the shoulder of the road, but you can be rewarded by a meandering hike over low hills and coast-view trails. Very popular with the mountain bikers.

In Northern Marin, Mt. Burdell is a popular destination for both hikers and bikers. At 1,558 feet, this is the tallest mountain in the area. The Old Quarry Trail leads to the top and is a steep and rocky five and a half mile climb. The trail offers sweeping views, magnificent oak trees and an abandoned rock quarry can be a side visit.



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Ted Strodder
All Marin Real Estate
511 Sir Francis Drake
Greenbrae CA 94904
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Ted Strodder is one of the most experienced, top Real Estate Brokers in Marin County, with over 800 home sales in his last 25 years.  Ted works in the Central Marin office for Frank Howard Allen, the #1 Real Estate company in the county year after year.  He has been licensed since 1985 and has worked in the same building for over twenty years, remaining grounded in the community in the most productive environment in Marin.  Ted is a native to the Bay Area and can answer any question you may have about specific property values, schools, weather patterns, commute times and recreation. He has personally remodeled twenty-four homes and is considered one of the county experts on fixer uppers and construction.  He is available seven days a week and is always just an email, text or phone call away. You may reach him at the office, 415.925.3205, on his cell 415.377.5222 or toll free at 800.482.6164.

California Department of Real Estate Broker's License #01057081